“Sib,” I said, holding up 10 fingers to indicate the competitors’
remaining set-up time. After “hello” and “thank you,” it was the first
Thai word I learned. I spun around to see the next competitor
preheating cups after his time had expired. “No, no, no ... you can’t
start!” I would come to be a fluent negotiator in exaggerated
international sign language, and the few words I did learn proved more
confusing than instructional. These were the first few chaotic hours of
what became a fantastic experience.
The first-ever World Barista Championship (WBC)-sanctioned Thailand
National Barista Championship (TNBC) was held in March, and I had the
opportunity to attend this significant event. In the past few decades,
Thailand has emerged as one of the world’s fastest-growing economies.
The competition’s existence reflects well on the increasing interest of
specialty coffee in Thailand and other Asian countries.
The delirium and excitement of the United States Barista Championship
(USBC) was only just beginning to wane when Sherri Johns, member of the
WBC Judge’s Certification Committee, asked me to assist in judge’s
training four days later. I took my last exam, packed my still-warm
competition gear and, with unrestrained giddiness, took the 17-hour
flight to Bangkok.
I arrived in Bangkok one day before the competition was to begin. The
unfamiliar air rushed upon me as I left the airplane and greeted me
similarly at every doorway over the next four days. During that time, I
would come to believe the coffees in Bangkok are pervaded by the same
wandering, unnamable perfumes and spices as the city’s hot, sweet air.
After a wondrous taxi ride, I arrived at the Conrad Bangkok hotel,
where the event was held. The hotel personnel held my bags and
immediately led me through the lobby into the adjacent mall. In the
central atrium, a small stage rose above the competition floor. A
section of chairs awaited the inevitable audience. The space stretched
two floors high with circular balconies on the above floors. Elbows and
limp hands would decorate these railings in increasing density over the
weekend. Beneath the stage were three sponsored Saeco espresso machines
and grinders, a prep table about three feet long and three circular
standing judge’s tables.
The judges-to-be were in their second day of training and certification
and were anxious to practice evaluating. As I meandered through my
routine, they alternated between sensory and technical judging,
calibrating their scores after each round. In the beginning, they
rewarded many flattering fours and fives for sub-par drinks, but soon
the scores declined and became uniform. Most enchanting were the rapid
sliding tones of Thai analyzing foam consistency and espresso body.
From more than 20 contenders, the dozen or so certified judges were
from coffeehouses in Thailand and Singapore.
The following day, competitors calmly took turns practicing on the
espresso machines, and by noon, they were ready to begin. I was given
the task of cueing the competitors and timing their setup and
performance. The chaos calmed once I understood the rhythm of rotating
competitors and added more words to my temporary vocabulary. Though the
event flowed well, I now have a deeper appreciation for Michelle
Campbell, Programs and Events Coordinator for the Specialty Coffee
Association of America, and the others who make the USBC run as
smoothly as a toddler’s birthday party.
There were many uniform aspects of the Thai baristas. Most competitors
used blends of 100 percent arabica Thai coffee. Many featured Thai
robusta as well, and only a select few used Indonesian coffees. This
was influenced by more than just a sense of pride in domestic products.
Several decades ago, in an effort to protect and stimulate the economy,
King Bhumibol Adulyadej encouraged the farmers in the north and south
of Thailand to grow coffee. He also instituted an extremely high tariff
on all imported green coffee, making the cost of imported coffee
unreasonable and thereby limiting the materials with which to create a
dynamic blend. In addition to preparation methods, shop owners and
roasters conveyed a want for knowledge of proper machinery. While many
desire superior espresso machinery, the cost of Italian imports is
equally astronomical. However, as Thailand’s place in the world economy
grows, tariffs begin to drop. Most notable is their relationship with
Australia, with whom the tariffs on goods like coffee and apparel will
drop from 30 percent to zero in the next 15 years.
With the USBC still fresh in my mind, the Thai competitors provided a
fascinating comparison to U.S. baristas. Just as in the first years of
the U.S. competition, there was a clear disparity of knowledge. Most
competitors were first-timers who had trained vigorously, but there
were some who were asked to compete just days beforehand. Many
competitors leveled and tamped well but would neglect tasks such as
adjusting their grind. Some came prepared with speech routines, while
others spoke infrequently or only after serving drinks or when
describing their blend or their signature drink ingredients. Those who
spoke fluidly throughout their presentation drew in shoppers who were
awed at the depth of artistry on display. By day two, observers were
occupying unused judges’ tables and inching as close to the action as
they could. One man even began fiddling with a steam wand and talking
to a competitor during his set-up!
There were also many noticeable organizational differences from the
American competition. For one thing, many Thai competitors packed their
gear neatly into plastic boxes that they brought on stage instead of
loose and loaded onto carts. Also, most of the signature drinks were
iced, not only due to the hot weather, but because coffee drinks in
Thailand are traditionally served chilled. The most intriguing foil was
that while some American competitors have their dishes polished and
arranged on carts hours before they compete, in the Thailand
competition, I would rush to find a competitor who was scheduled to
begin their set up in three minutes, only to discover them sitting
calmly in the audience, observing with other competitors! The Thais are
as laid-back and friendly as they are reputed to be.
Similarities were inevitable, though. Just as in the USBC, some
competitors were more polished and skilled than others from the first
round. However, at the semifinals, the competitors were noticeably
different. Their demeanor was more serious, their actions deliberate
and polished, and many had changed their presentations. Moreover, many
competitors had altered their signature drinks due to a rumor that the
judges preferred hot drinks. I learned later that after the
semifinalists were announced, several competitors trained together,
late into the night. These baristas became five of the six finalists,
reaffirming the strength of training as a team, which Intelligensia
Coffee Roasters did at the USBC. Moreover, three of the four companies
represented in the finals used the same espresso blend, showing that in
a barista competition, the quality of one’s espresso blend is critical.
First place went to Suphot Leesuwattangul, who was not only personable
and charming but also technically gifted. He was a standout barista
from the beginning and wore his radiant smile through every round.
Suphot was a supportive member of the audience whenever he wasn’t
competing, leaning forward as though watching a spectator sport. His
co-worker was runner-up with an equally impressive presentation.
In a culture in which the bean has long been a staple, the TNBC
represents the blossoming future of specialty coffee in Thailand. In
the years to come, with increased knowledge among baristas, increased
demand for quality by customers and diminishing difficulties, Thai
baristas are sure to become great allies in the good fight for better
coffee. I am honored to have met baristas so passionate, curious and
driven as those in this first wave of Thailand’s specialty coffee
industry.
Jennifer Prince is a barista and trainer for Zoka Coffee Roaster and Tea Co.’s University Store. She placed 10th in the 2005 USBC. Comments on this article may be sent to
